1. Floors shall be smooth, permanently dry, clean, and free all foreign material such as dust, wax, solvents, paint, grease, oils, and old adhesive residue. The surface must be hard and dense, and free from powder or flaking.
2. Concrete slabs must be dry with no visible moisture.
3. Required Moisture Testing - maximum moisture level per ASTM 1869 CaCl is 8 lbs. and ASTM 2170 In-situ Relative Humidity 90% per 1000 sq.ft. in 24 hours. If moisture test results exceed these limits, we recommend use of a moisture remediation system.
4. Do not install over concrete with a history of high moisture or hydrostatic conditions. 
5. pH level of concrete should be between 7-10
6. The final responsibility for determining if the concrete is dry enough for installation of the flooring lies with the floor covering installer.

Radiant Heat: Radiant-heated subfloor systems can be concrete, wood or a combination of both. The heating systems components must have a minimum of 1/2" separation from the flooring product. The system must be on and operational for at least 2 weeks prior to installation to reduce residual moisture. Three days prior to installation lower the temperature to 65 degrees, after installation gradually increase the temperature in increments of 5° F to avoid overheating. Maximum operating temperature should never exceed 85°F. Use of an in-floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating. Contact the manufacturer of your radiant heating system for further recommendations. 

• Electric Radiant Floors: consist of electric cables (or) mats of electrically conductive materials mounted on the subfloor below the floor covering. Mesh systems are typically embedded in thin-set. When embedding the system components, use cementitious patching and leveling compounds that meet or exceed Shaw’s maximum moisture level and pH requirements.  Use of gypsum-based patching and/or leveling compounds which contain Portland or high alumina cement and meet or exceed the compressive strength of 3,000 psi are acceptable. 
• Hydronic Radiant Floors: pump heated water from a boiler through tubing laid in a pattern under the flooring. Typically installed in channels under a wooden subfloor (or) imbedded in concrete slabs. Requires the installer follow a specific nailing pattern to avoid penetration of the heat system.

WARNING! Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust a substance known to the State of California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling wood dust or use a dust mask or other safeguards for personal protection. For more information go to https://www.p65warnings.ca.gov/products/wood-dust

C. Existing Floor Coverings

• Mineral core flooring can be installed over most existing hard–surface floor coverings, provided that the existing floor surface is clean, flat dry and structurally sound.
• Existing sheet vinyl floors should not be heavily cushioned and not exceed more than one layer in thickness. Soft underlayment and soft substrates will compromise the product's locking ability as well as diminish its indentation resistance.
• Ceramic tile and terrazzo: All wax and sealers must be removed with an appropriate cleaner/stripper. Ceramic tile and terrazzo should be abraded to allow for proper adhesion. Check for loose tiles by tapping and re-adhere. Fill grout lines with a cementitious latex fortified leveling compound.Installation is NOT allowed over any type of carpet.
• Do NOT install over wood floors adhered to concrete.
• Never use solvents or citrus adhesive removers to remove old adhesive residue. Solvent residue left in and on the subfloor may affect the new floor covering.​

Raised access panels

• Must be stable, level, flat, free and clean of existing adhesives
• 24" x 24" panels are recommended.
• Lippage (variation of height) between panels must not exceed 0.0295” (0.75 mm)
• Gaps between panels must not exceed 0.039” (1mm)
• There should be no deflection of the individual panels – Concave less than 0.0295” (0.75 mm) Flatness 1/8” in 10’
• Stagger the flooring tiles/planks to overlap the access panels
• Telegraphing of access panel seams may be visible and is not considered a product defect nor warranted by the flooring manufacturer. 
• ​If needed overlay the panels with a 1⁄4” (6 mm) plywood and properly fasten to the access panels prior to the installation of the floorcovering. Prior to underlayment installation, repair any loose or unstable panels. Use the appropriate installation methods for the product

• Begin at the starting wall. Roll underlayment out parallel to the starting wall and allow the poly film to run 2 inches up the wall.

• After the flooring has been installed trim back the poly film from the wall.

• Roll the next course of poly film parallel to the first run and overalap a minimum of 4 inches.  Smooth out any wrinkles or creases in the poly film. Use clear tape to tape the seams together when installed over concrete substrates.

• Continue to install the flooring over top of the poly film taking care not to damage the poly film.

Note: Do not cover the entire area of the substrate to prevent damage or present a slip hazard. Roll the poly film out one row at a time.

Floating Installation

Mineral core flooring is designed to be installed utilizing the floating method. Never secure the planks to the subfloor when using the floating installation method. Proper expansion space (1/4”), 6mm is required. Undercut all doorjambs. Do not fasten wall moldings and or transition strips to the planks.

If cabinets are to be installed on top of the flooring (including islands), that area of material must be fully adhered to the subfloor (including an additional 2’ft beyond the cabinets and islands). If gluing down the flooring, follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions with regards to moisture and temperature limitations. 

Note: This product may only be glued down underneath cabinets and at flush mount stairnosing. 

For wet areas such as bathrooms caulk the perimeter of the floor with a silicone caulk.

Must be installed in a staggered (offset) pattern. 

INSTALLING THE FIRST ROW:

1. Starting from the LEFT with the tongue facing the wall, carefully place the first board in place. Use spacers along the wall allowing the required expansion spacing (1/4'').
2. When installing the end joints on the first row of the floor, you will need to have GORILLA GEL SUPER GLUE or CLEAR GORILLA NON-FOAMING ADHESIVE on hand and glue the end joints of the planks of the first Row.
3. Align the next piece by overlapping the end of the first board so that the joint is tight when the board lays flat. Some slight adjustment of the board may be necessary to assure a tight fit. Place spacers against wall to restrain movement and maintain expansion gap.
4. Continue in this manner until reaching the final plank in the first row.
5. Cut the final board piece to length allowing for the required expansion gap.
6. Place spacers against wall to restrain movement and maintain expansion gap.

CONTINUING THE INSTALLATION:

1. Begin the second row with the cut piece from the first row.  If the cut piece is shorter than 8", do not use it. Instead, begin with a new board that is at least 8” in length and allows 8" between the end joints on the adjacent planks.
2. Position the first board in place by angling it up slightly, pushing forward and interlocking the side tongue. Slide the board to the left as necessary to align the edges of the end joint.
3. Carefully push the board down until the tongue and groove lock together on the side and ends. 
4. A slight tap with a tapping block is necessary for the long side joint only.
5. The lippage from the previous row will come into proper placement as the next row is tapped into place.
6. Restrain the movement of the board by inserting a spacer in the expansion gap at the end of the board.
7. Install the remaining boards and rows in the same manner. 
8. Cut the last board to size allowing for the required expansion gap. Place spacers against wall to restrain movement and maintain expansion gap. If necessary, complete the tight fit by tapping the board into place with a pull bar.
9. Whenever practical, use cut pieces from previous rows as the starter board to reduce waste.
10. Maintain 8” spacing between end joints after the first four rows for best appearance.

INSTALLING FINAL ROW:

1. The last row may need to be cut lengthwise (ripped).
2. Place the last row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed planks. Use a piece of plank as a scribe to trace the contour of the wall.
3. Mark where the board will be cut. If the fit of the wall is simple and straight, simply measure for the correct fit and cut.
4. After boards are cut, position planks and tighten the fit using the pull bar. 

   NOTE: Adhering tape to the surface of your resilient flooring could damage the surface. 
   Do not use tape to secure floor protection directly to the floor during construction or renovation. Instead, adhere tape to the material used to protect the floor and secure it to the base molding along the wall.  A material such as ram board can also be used to protect your flooring.

INSTALLING UNDER A DOOR JAMB:

1. Installation under moldings (such as door jambs) may require that the top lip of the groove on the end be reduced in size
2. Using a small plane or knife plane, carefully shave off the ledge of the groove. 
3. After the groove ledge has been trimmed, place the board in place and tighten with a pull bar to test for fit. The installer must be sure that the required expansion gap has been maintained and the flooring is not pinched.
4. If fit is not correct, re-trim as necessary.
5. Place a bead of adhesive on the bottom lip of the groove.
6. Insert the tongue into the groove and tighten the fit with a pull bar. Hold the board in place with painters tape until the adhesive is dry. Do not use masking tape or duct tape as they may damage the floors finish.