Congoleum Rigid Core LVP Installation Guide

Read and follow the safety precautions and warnings printed on
the label of the installation accessory products being used. Obtain the appropriate Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for information
that may be required for products which may contain hazardous
materials. You may obtain an SDS for Congoleum products by
calling or writing to your Congoleum distributor or contacting
Congoleum Flooring, Installation Department, 3500 Quakerbridge Road, Mercerville, NJ 08619, or calling at 609-584-3805.

• Flooring installation should be scheduled after all other
trades have completed their work.
• The HVAC systems must be in operation for at least 7 days
prior to flooring installation and thereafter to maintain a
constant temperature.
• Under typical conditions, Triversa does not need to be acclimated to the jobsite. Acclimation is recommended if extreme
temperature variations occur during storage or transportation. For best results, acclimate the room(s) at a constant
temperature between 65°F and 85°F for 48 hours prior to
and during the installation. Temperature thereafter should be
maintained between 32° F and 110° F.
• Handle cartons and flooring carefully to protect the locking
edge profile.
• Un-opened cartons of flooring should be neatly stacked in
the room (maximum 10 cartons high) where they will be
installed during the acclimation period. Avoid placing cartons
in direct sunlight during acclimation. Open cartons just prior
to installation.
• Cabinets may be installed on top of Triversa Prime in
residential installations following these specific guidelines.
The subfloor must be completely flat and secure. Level wavy
floors or uneven areas that exceed 3/16" in 10′ or 1/16″ in
1′. Cabinets must be secured to the wall but never fastened
through the flooring. Allow ¼″ expansion space around any
pipes or other fixed objects.
• When using flooring from two or more cartons, make sure
pattern and run numbers found on the carton are the same.
• Install flooring from several different cartons to achieve a
random appearance. Install flooring to achieve a balance of
color without clusters of similar planks or tiles.
• Always allow a 1/4″ expansion space around the entire perimeter of the room, at all base cabinets, fixtures and pipes.
Cover the exposed edges with trim or fill the gap with a high
quality acrylic caulking.
• If the installation area has a width and/or length greater than
50 lineal feet, an expansion joint will be required. Cover the
expansion joint with a Congoleum Transition molding.

• CR021 Adhesive – For fully adhered applications only
• 1/16″x 1/16″ x 1/16″ square notched trowel –
For fully adhered applications only
• 100-pound, 3-section, steel roller –
For fully adhered applications only
• Chalk line
• Carpenter square
• Sharp utility knife and replacement blades
(tile cutter optional)
• Cutting board
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Hammer
• Tapping Block
• Pull bar
• ¼″ spacers
• Power circular saw or jigsaw

• Move all furniture, appliances, and fixtures from the room.
• Remove all wood, metal or vinyl transition strips, base moldings or other restrictive molding from doorways, walls, etc.
• Undercut wood door casing where possible so that the flooring can be slid under it.

The existing subfloor type and condition, preparation involved, cost and replacement ease, are all important considerations when
selecting the best installation method for a particular job. The chart below provides a list of common subfloors and requirements for
floating and fully adhered installation methods.

All subfloor surfaces must be clean, dry, smooth, and structurally
sound. The surface should be free of contaminants or reagents
that can interfere with adhesion or cause discoloration to the floor
such as paint, wax, oil, grease, solvent, adhesive residue, curing
and parting compounds, sealers and surface hardeners on floors
that are to be directly bonded to the subfloor only. Floating installations can be installed over paint, dry adhesive residue, wax,
curing and parting compounds, sealers and surface hardeners.
Deviations in the flatness of the subfloor cannot exceed 1/16″ in 1′
or 3/16″ in 10′. Regardless of the installation method, all surface
imperfections should be leveled with a Portland cement-based
patching compound. Gypsum-based patching compounds are not

Wood floors must be structurally sound and free of movement
with at least 18″ (46 cm) of well-ventilated air space below.
An effective vapor barrier laid on the ground surface must
be used in a crawl space. Do not install flooring over wood
subfloors laid directly on concrete or over sleeper construction
laid over concrete subfloors. Sand joints smooth and set fasteners 1/32″ (.8 mm) below the surface. Fill joints wider than 1/32″
(.8 mm) when bonding flooring directly to the subfloor. Rough,
weathered or damaged subfloor panels must be sanded smooth
or covered with a suitable underlayment panel. Always follow
underlayment manufacturer installation recommendations.
Congoleum will not assume responsibility for claims related to
subfloor problems regardless of the underlayment or subfloor
material used.

Concrete floors must be constructed, finished and cured in
accordance with the latest guidelines of the American Concrete
Institute (ACI) 302 Guide for Concrete Floor and Slab Construction and ASTM F710 “Standard Practice for Preparing Concrete
Floors to Receive Resilient Flooring”. The concrete slab must
be protected from ground moisture with an effective and intact
vapor retarder. Moisture vapor emissions must not exceed
12-lbs. /1000 ft.²/24 hrs when tested with anhydrous calcium
chloride test kits in accordance with ASTM F1869 or be greater
than 95% RH (relative humidity) when tested with in situ probes
in accordance with ASTM F2170. Surface pH must be less than
11. Level rough or uneven surfaces, cracks and control joints
with a Portland cement-based patching compound. Do not
install flooring over expansion joints or in areas with excessive
moisture vapor emissions, known hydrostatic pressure problems or high alkali conditions exist

Existing resilient floors must be single layer, fully adhered and
well bonded over an approved subfloor. Remove all wax, floor finish
or polish prior to installation. Use a Portland cement-based patching
compound to level embossed floors. Do not install new flooring over
loose laid or perimeter fastened floors, soft or heavily cushioned
floors, cushioned-backed flooring, flooring containing asbestos,
self-adhered tile, tile installed below grade level, or products with
ScotchGard™ or other non-stick coatings. Installation over existing
flooring may reduce the indentation resistance of the new floor.
Adhesive residue must be completely removed on installations
where flooring will be directly bonded to the subfloor. Refer to the
Resilient Floor Covering Institute (RFCI) Recommended Work
Practices for procedures involving adhesive removal. Do not
use solvent or liquid adhesive removers to remove old adhesive
residue. These products can have a damaging effect on the new
floor and adhesive.

For best appearance, planks should be installed parallel to the
long dimension of the room and preferably parallel to outside light
sources i.e. windows and doors.
Measure the width of the room and snap a chalk line down the
center of the floor. Determine the width of the plank in the starting
row against the starting wall either through measurements or dry
layouts. If smaller than one-half of the plank width, adjust the chalk
line in either direction one-half of the plank width to achieve a
balanced layout and avoid narrow pieces at the side walls.
The flooring can be cut using a score and snap technique (score
with a sharp utility knife blade and carefully snap the plank) or a
power circular saw or jigsaw. Exercise care when using the score
and snap method to avoid damaging the edge profile.
Scribe and cut the first row of planks along the wall if the wall is
irregular or if the starting row is narrower than a full plank width.
Plan the layout to avoid using small planks (less than 8″) at the
walls. The cut piece at the end of the row can often be used to start
the next row provided it achieves a random layout. Always place
the cut end against the wall and allow a 1/4″ expansion space.
Start the installation in the left hand corner of the room with the
tongue side toward the starting wall.


Insert ¼″ spacers for expansion along the edges and ends
where the planks meet the wall.


Use Spacers to maintain 1/4" expansion space around perimeter 

Attach the second plank to the first plank in the first row by
holding the plank at a low angle to the floor and inserting the
end tongue into the end groove, applying light pressure inward
and down until the planks secure together.


Repeat this process using full planks and finish the row by measuring and cutting the final plank to fit. Use spacers in the first
row between the edge and end of the last plank and the wall to
maintain a 1/4″ expansion space.
Start the second row using the piece cut from the last piece
in the first row as long as it is more than 8″. Place the cut end
against the wall. Insert the tongue on the long side of the plank

into the groove of the plank in the first row. Hold the plank in a

low angle while applying light pressure inward and down until
they secure together.
Then, use a hammer and tapping block to secure long side of
the planks together. Be sure to tap on the edge of the vinyl so
as not to damage locking profile.


Insert the tongue of the next plank into the groove of the plank in the first row. Hold the plank in a low angle while applying light pressure inward and down until they secure together. Slide the plank toward end of previously installed plank until the tongue just touches the groove. Attach a scrap piece of flooring as a guide to bridge the gap between the ends of the planks. Tap the end of plank using a hammer and tapping block to secure ends of planks together.


Remove the guide and continue installing the second row in the
same way. Use a hammer and pull bar to secure final piece in
the second row allowing a 1/4″ expansion space at the end of
the row.


Complete each row thereafter in the same manner using a random layout with end joints off-set by at least 8″. Work from several different cartons to ensure a random pattern layout. Tapping
planks together can shift the entire floor. Periodically check the
floor for straightness by measuring from the edge of a complete
row to the wall at both ends of the room. If the measurements
don’t match, adjust the floor until they do.
If the wall along the last row of planks is irregular, scribe the
planks to fit and cut them. Use a hammer and pull bar to secure
long edges of planks on final row. Always use a pull bar on the
cut edge of the plank. Factory edges can be damaged if the pull
bar is used directly against them.


Triversa can be installed easily when working forward (placing
the tongue in to the groove) or backward (placing the groove in
to the tongue). This allows for easy fitting around door trim and
changing direction to go into alcoves or adjoining rooms.
Triversa can also be assembled by using a pull bar or tapping
block in difficult areas such as the last row and when fitting
around any door trim. When fitting around door trim it will be
necessary to slide the plank under the trim. This can be accomplished by starting the row on the side of the room with the door
trim and then sliding the plank into place once it is attached. The
row can be completed by inserting the tongue in to the groove or
the groove into the tongue depending on the direction.
A tapping block can also be used to secure the joints together
while the planks are in a flat position. Use a piece of scrap
flooring with the corresponding male or female joint and a series
of light taps until the joint is gradually secured together. Do not
hit the edge directly or use excessive force as it could damage
the edge of the plank.


When installing in a bathroom, the flooring can be laid under the
toilet provided that the floor is separated from adjacent rooms
with a doorway threshold or transition molding. Otherwise the
flooring should be fit around the toilet leaving a 1/8″ expansion
space. Use a high quality acrylic caulking to fill the expansion
space at the toilet, bathtub, shower and all wet areas to prevent
surface water from seeping under the floor.

Triversa Prime can be installed fully adhered over steps using
UnderFlor CR021 Adhesive. Follow the instruction on the adhesive for trowel size and drying time. Always use a stair nose
molding to finish each step at the nose.

In commercial environments subjected to heavy rolling loads,
or where high performance requirements must be met, Triversa
Prime can be installed fully adhered using UnderFlor CR021
adhesive. Use a 1/16″ x 1/16″ x 1/16″ square notch trowel. Refer
to the CR021 label for recommended substrates and open time.
Start the installation at the wall to avoid walking on freshly installed flooring. Transfer the center chalk line to within 24″ to 36″
from the wall opposite the entrance of the room using a multiple
of the plank or tile width. Snap additional chalk lines to divide

the floor into sections for adhesive application. Each section
should be about the width of two rows of plank or wide enough
that the flooring can be easily installed without reaching too far.
Apply CR021 Adhesive in the first section. Spread the adhesive
evenly over the subfloor, keeping the trowel at a 45° angle to
the surface. Apply only enough adhesive that can be covered
with plank or tile within the 20 to 30 minute working time. Before
setting tiles or planks, allow adhesive to flash off for 5 to 10
minutes over porous surfaces.

Set planks into adhesive and lock together with a tapping block
and hammer. Rest the tapping block on the edge of the flooring,
not the locking mechanism, to avoid getting adhesive on the
tapping block. Complete each section and repeat to finish the

Do not walk on or work on freshly laid flooring until the adhesive
has set sufficiently to eliminate shifting. If unavoidable, use a
kneeling board to disperse weight. Keep traffic off the newly
installed floor for at least 24 hours after installation. Open to
light traffic for the next 48 hours. Resume normal traffic after 72

• If necessary, use lighter fluid, paint thinner or mineral spirits
applied with a clean white cloth to remove scuffs marks and
adhesive residue. Keep traffic off treated area for 30 minutes.
CAUTION: Lighter fluid, paint thinner and mineral spirits are flammable. Carefully read and follow cautionary
information on label.
• Remove all spacers from the perimeter of the room.
• Install the base moldings and fasten the trim to the wall not to
the subfloor. Do not drive fasteners into the floor or underlayment.
• All finish trim and transition moldings must be installed so they
do not bind or restrict the finished flooring from moving when
expansion and contraction occurs during seasonal changes.
• Seal all areas that may be exposed to surface spills, i.e. tubs,
toilet and showers with a high quality acrylic caulking.
• Return appliances and furniture to the room by rolling or
sliding them over strips of hardboard. 


Use a power circular saw to make a cut down the center of the
damaged plank to within 2″ of the ends.


Prepare the replacement plank by removing the bottom of the
groove along the long and short side. Check the replacement
piece by laying it into place. The plank should fit neatly into
place without gaps at the joints. Remove the plank.
Before completing the repair, place a 2″ wide strip of wax paper
centered under the edge of the tongue on the long and short
side. This will prevent adhesive from bonding the plank to the
Next apply a 1/8″ bead of Loctite Power Grab© Heavy Duty®
construction adhesive to the exposed groove along the long
and short end of the surrounding planks. Do not use excess
Immediately while adhesive is wet install the replacement plank
by inserting the tongue into the groove along the long side. Use
a tapping block to secure the short end and then drop the plank
into position.
Remove excess adhesive from the surface and roll the edges
with a steel hand roller. Clean the surface immediately with a
clean cloth and mild detergent to remove any adhesive residue.
Then dry with a clean soft cloth. Note: adhesive and adhesive
film is not removable if allowed to dry on the surface of the floor.
Apply weight to the adhered edges for 20 to 30 minutes.
Keep traffic off the repair for 12 hours.

• Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove grit and sand that can
abrade, dull or scratch your new floor. Do not use a vacuum
with a beater brush, because it may damage the floor’s
• Wipe up spills promptly with a damp cloth or mop.
• Wash the floor with Bright ’N Easy No-Rinse Cleaner or other
suitable floor cleaner.
• Do not buff the floor.

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